Custom Design Assignment

Project:  Long, Art Deco style Dangle Earrings

Precious Metal selected by client: 14k White Gold

Gemstones:  Client requested use of existing collection of diamonds of varying sizes and cuts which had been removed from other items of her personal jewelry.

This will be a fabricated item, there will be a sequence of construction. Sometimes confusing to the untrained eye but it will all come together in the end.

The larger diamonds are in bezels with .75 MM spacers in between. Individually soldered this is a piece of the puzzle.

The key stone Baguette is soldered in place at the base of the earrings. These re hand made as they are off sizes. The center of the earring is then cut out allowing for placement of bezel set diamonds. These are NOT soldered in to position yet. We need room to do the Pave' diamond work around the rime of the earrings.

All diamonds are carefully measured laid out and then the seats for the diamonds are drilled into our design. Slight modifications will be made as we fit the diamonds, like the two at the base of the earring. Clients request a slight pillow shape versa's just a curve. The addition of two small diamonds will fill the extra space and give us to finished look we will want as the earrings come together.

Working our way down, as in size. Again carefully measuring each diamond making sure of correct placement. We want that gentle taper, achieve by detail.

Getting down to the .02 ct diamonds which have a diameter of 1.7 MM

We have a long way to go but you can see things taking shape. Metal will be trimmed down to fit next to the diamonds

I like to use two types of engravers, a converted knife for original cuts and a large flat for the bright work, trimming

Shown one side started the other ready to be cut. Engravers shown

The second smallest diamond setting shown next to a Dime. Just so you can get an idea of scale, this is precision hand work. And we have a long way to go!

OK  client wished for a shorter Baguette at the base of earring

We have in her inventory a smaller baguette and we can shorten up the setting

see detail next photo

Click photo to enlarge, Hit upper left arrow to return to this page

This should give client an idea of what we can do with existing diamonds

OK we have shortened up the baguette setting as per clients request and have "rounded out" the bottom inside. We are looking at SHAPE at this time. The bezel row is just held in place to give an idea of what it will look like. Again we are looking at shape.

An over all look at what we have at this time

Center bezels are not soldered yet, they will be lower in height.

Upper earring has been started

Just a quick detail of where we are heading.

Original sketch with slight modifications on 6-22-09, approval date

Looks like we CAN use the larger baguettes (removed from the bottom of earring). If I make the settings a little longer they can fit across the top and finnish our DECO Design!

I think this slight modification is a real good idea with a look that will tie everything into position.

Will call

Soldering all of our parts together,we call it fabrication.

Starting on the back spacers, using tubing. This has a nice traditional look when finished

Back frame wire is soldered on, over sixty solders on this piece alone

The tubing and back wire add a nice dimension, this also protects the back of the diamonds, the culets.

Back side view of earring. The framework is complete.

Time to start on the earring top

These were time consuming, everything must work correctly!

From the clients design to the working hinge.

As these were commissioned in gold I have chosen to use platinum for all the findings. That being, top post, hinge joint, lever, and dangle joint. Made in platinum the working parts are superior for durability where they will have allot of movement. These earrings would be too heavy if totally made in platinum.

A straight on view, they always look better with diamonds. These will look fabulous

Details.......there are 174 solders in this pair of earrings!

The larger diamonds are set in there prospective bezels

Time for some real detail, Pave' The diamond setting technique I just love

The earring is secured in a substance that will liquefy when heated but is hard when cool

This secures the earring while I set the stones

Mounted in a jewelers engraving block, it rotates. Assisting in the many angels it will take to set the diamonds.

One by one, diamonds are set in there pre determined spots.

All carefully measured way back at the beginning

More diamonds are measured and set

Shown are the 1.75, 1.7 and 1.65 MM diamonds

Approximately .02ct each

DONE

2.5" long,

8.48 ct's of VS/ FGH

7.75 grams each

Total elegance

New work    Done

We start with a young mans dream 's..

2.25 ct GIA Certified, Laser Inscribed Diamond

Starting out with hard carving wax we make a blank the ring size we want. Carefully scribing center lines to carve by

The Diamond is carefully centered, Checked for depth and more scribed lines are made in preparation of the next cuts

More cuts are made, more lines are scribed. We have a long way to go

Getting there, still have to lighten up

Subtle, the wax is trimmed down to a comfortable size as well as durable

We will Pave' set diamonds down the prongs as well as around the seat for the center diamond.

Casting came out well. Sanded and ready for polish

Just finished setting all diamonds

This has a very elegant style.

Now for a little Identification

Laser inscribed GIA certificate number

This particular job is a Re-Mount.

Client wanted a Different look

We start out by documenting all stones, matching their certificates and running a video tape when necessary. Clients are shown exactly what they bring in or buy, close up! There are no mistakes this way.

The Design process begins with drawings that evolve around the clients wishes, needs and life style. The drawings are then modified for durability and visual balance and finally agreed upon, signed and dated.

At this point a deposit is taken and it is agreed that a custom designed commission is being purchased by the client and created by the designer/goldsmith.

In this instance we will use the lost wax process and start with a hard carving wax.

The diamonds are carefully measured for height angle and the wax is lightly scribed

for proper placement.and centering.

The carving begins and reduction takes place slowly.

Carving continues with the shaping of the design.

Design form is beginning to appear.

Wax has been trimmed down to fighting weight. Client has given approval to go ahead in platinum.

Wax carving is now "Sprued Up" wax vents shown in red help deliver the platinum to the ring

A metal cylinder is added and sealed with wax to prevent the investment mixture from leaking out

Paper cylinder is added for overflow of investment.

Special acid base investment is mixed with heavy duty mixer .

"so that's where the Kitchen Aide wen t........"

With the aid of special vacuum pump the investment is "De-Bubbled" all the little air bubbles are removed. This is done by reducing the atmosphere by 1. All the tiny bubbles turn into big bubbles and rise to the surface 

After a certain amount of de-bubbling it is safe to assume there are no more sizable bubbles, which allows for a smooth casting

 The flask is now set aside for a good 12 hours.  The investment hardens allowing it to take the necessary heat to "Burn Out" all of our wax carving  This Burn Out is done in a Kiln, with flask temperature at 1700 degrees F and Platinum temperature much hotter. 

Kiln shown with a ramp up temp of 1700 degrees.  All the wax has been burned out.  At this time the crucible is loaded with the casting material and heated up to 3500 degrees ( in this case for platinum ) making for a nice liquid state. The flask is now removed from the kiln and carefully placed in the casting machine.   A quick double check for the state of liquidity of the platinum and the vertical caster is released, flinging the molten liquid into the flask and filling all the voids left by the wax burn out.,  Thus called the Lost Wax Technique.

Kiln Temperature ramped to 1700, ready for casting .Platinum has been added to a crucible, loaded in the vertical casting machine. It is heated up to at least 3500 degrees for a nice liquid state. The flask is now brought over from the kiln and locked in the casting machine. A quick double check on the liquid platinum and we set the centrifuge in motion! This is very hot operation, I wear appropriate leathers as well as a respirator inside my welding mask.

Sorry I cant take photos and cast at the same time.

This is minutes after casting has occurred. Vertical caster in motion

Platinum is cooled and removed from flask. Investment is like glass over the casting. It is soaked in hydrofluoric acid over night. In the morning I cut off the extra platinum, the sprue. Start in on sanding and polishing the ring

I have forged ahead and sanded, polished and begum the setting

In this rare occasion I have set the large stones first.

All Mele' is carefully measured before Pave' setting

A lot of measuring and layout has occurred. Precision is a must, there are NO MISTAKES ALLOWED

A layout is gently scribed on the work area. Pilot holes are drilled for each diamond.

"Seats" are drilled, this is what the diamond sits on in the setting.

Shown the Setting Burr, along with seats for diamonds drilled to perfect height

Engravers are used to cut the setting

Shown a knife engraver, this one starts the cuts. Next will be a flat engraver to "Bright Cut" the setting

Center diamond shows set accent diamonds, side diamond is now ready for accent diamonds to be set.

I like to use a 90 degree "V" engraver for the corners. I raise a Burr in all four corners

Now the "Burrs" are sharp so I use a Beading tool to make a little "Bead" out of the Burr

The tip on the beading tool is convex

Every thing is taking shape

It is now time to do the sides. Reference the sketches I will put allot more diamonds down the sides as well as the center.

Yes even more pilot holes with seats.  A lot more diamonds to go. All the holes add up. The integrity of the ring must carefully be planned to allow for the quantity of stones to be set.

A careful balance of stability must be maintained. This was carefully thought out while designing the ring.

Working down the sides

More Diamonds are set, these are the original design

It is finally ready SPECTACULAR

6.45 ct set in Platinum

Now you have an idea of "How It Is Done "

Years of perfecting this technique goes into every piece

Original ring.

Just fine if you like production "Baskets"

This client is NOT a production person!