New project

Make it better, make it right!

Traditional manufactured mounts simply do not fit your stones. That is where I come in, custom designed mount for your stone.

Let's get started

Diamonds are set down into the green carving wax. A tedious process, scribing lines creating angles as they must have perfect symmetry. The slightest wrong angle will throw off the

entire ring.

Bulk carving started

We now have the basic shape, height and proportion.  

Next step is to cut out the open areas in the sides as well as trim down the prongs.

Dropped the head down and began the cut outs

Double click on any photo to enlarge

 ROUGH CAST

This will be sanded, polished and then we set the stones.  

Much work to be done and client wants delivery very soon

A special note to the bump on the inside of the ring shank, the piece

that looks like the hump on a little camel.

This is done to assist in keeping the stones centered on the finger.

8 hours of sanding and polishing 

Time to set the diamonds

but that will have to wait till tomorrow

All the time and precision of planning is coming into play

Now it gets exciting...

Just finished, Lets call the client

Keeping this one simple as we just want to show diamonds

This particular job is a Re-Mount.

Client wanted a Different look

We start out by documenting all stones, matching their certificates and running a video tape when necessary. Clients are shown exactly what they bring in or buy, close up! There are no mistakes this way.

The Design process begins with drawings that evolve around the clients wishes, needs and life style. The drawings are then modified for durability and visual balance and finally agreed upon, signed and dated.

At this point a deposit is taken and it is agreed that a custom designed commission is being purchased by the client and created by the designer/goldsmith.

In this instance we will use the lost wax process and start with a hard carving wax.

The diamonds are carefully measured for height angle and the wax is lightly scribed

for proper placement.and centering.

The carving begins and reduction takes place slowly.

Carving continues with the shaping of the design.

Design form is beginning to appear.

Wax has been trimmed down to fighting weight. Client has given approval to go ahead in platinum.

Wax carving is now "Sprued Up" wax vents shown in red help deliver the platinum to the ring

A metal cylinder is added and sealed with wax to prevent the investment mixture from leaking out

Paper cylinder is added for overflow of investment.

Special acid base investment is mixed with heavy duty mixer .

"so that's where the Kitchen Aide wen t........"

With the aid of special vacuum pump the investment is "De-Bubbled" all the little air bubbles are removed. This is done by reducing the atmosphere by 1. All the tiny bubbles turn into big bubbles and rise to the surface 

After a certain amount of de-bubbling it is safe to assume there are no more sizable bubbles, which allows for a smooth casting

 The flask is now set aside for a good 12 hours.  The investment hardens allowing it to take the necessary heat to "Burn Out" all of our wax carving  This Burn Out is done in a Kiln, with flask temperature at 1700 degrees F and Platinum temperature much hotter. 

Kiln shown with a ramp up temp of 1700 degrees.  All the wax has been burned out.  At this time the crucible is loaded with the casting material and heated up to 3500 degrees ( in this case for platinum ) making for a nice liquid state. The flask is now removed from the kiln and carefully placed in the casting machine.   A quick double check for the state of liquidity of the platinum and the vertical caster is released, flinging the molten liquid into the flask and filling all the voids left by the wax burn out.,  Thus called the Lost Wax Technique.

Kiln Temperature ramped to 1700, ready for casting .Platinum has been added to a crucible, loaded in the vertical casting machine. It is heated up to at least 3500 degrees for a nice liquid state. The flask is now brought over from the kiln and locked in the casting machine. A quick double check on the liquid platinum and we set the centrifuge in motion! This is very hot operation, I wear appropriate leathers as well as a respirator inside my welding mask.

Sorry I cant take photos and cast at the same time.

This is minutes after casting has occurred. Vertical caster in motion

Platinum is cooled and removed from flask. Investment is like glass over the casting. It is soaked in hydrofluoric acid over night. In the morning I cut off the extra platinum, the sprue. Start in on sanding and polishing the ring

I have forged ahead and sanded, polished and begum the setting

In this rare occasion I have set the large stones first.

All Mele' is carefully measured before Pave' setting

A lot of measuring and layout has occurred. Precision is a must, there are NO MISTAKES ALLOWED

A layout is gently scribed on the work area. Pilot holes are drilled for each diamond.

"Seats" are drilled, this is what the diamond sits on in the setting.

Shown the Setting Burr, along with seats for diamonds drilled to perfect height

Engravers are used to cut the setting

Shown a knife engraver, this one starts the cuts. Next will be a flat engraver to "Bright Cut" the setting

Center diamond shows set accent diamonds, side diamond is now ready for accent diamonds to be set.

I like to use a 90 degree "V" engraver for the corners. I raise a Burr in all four corners

Now the "Burrs" are sharp so I use a Beading tool to make a little "Bead" out of the Burr

The tip on the beading tool is convex

Every thing is taking shape

It is now time to do the sides. Reference the sketches I will put allot more diamonds down the sides as well as the center.

Yes even more pilot holes with seats.  A lot more diamonds to go. All the holes add up. The integrity of the ring must carefully be planned to allow for the quantity of stones to be set.

A careful balance of stability must be maintained. This was carefully thought out while designing the ring.

Working down the sides

More Diamonds are set, these are the original design

It is finally ready SPECTACULAR

6.45 ct set in Platinum

Now you have an idea of "How It Is Done "

Years of perfecting this technique goes into every piece

Original ring.

Just fine if you like production "Baskets"

This client is NOT a production person!